Pleins feux: Monterey & Carmel CarmelMission_hero_1280x642
Kodiak Greenwood

Centre de la Californie

Pleins feux: Monterey & Carmel

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54
November
Average (°F)
Sept - Nov
65°
High
50°
Low
Dec - Feb
58°
High
43°
Low
Mar - May
61°
High
47°
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June - Aug
66°
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53°
Low

Enveloppée par le Pacifique sur trois côtés, la péninsule de Monterey offre à la fois des plages au vent et des criques tranquilles, une cuisine raffinée et des repas occasionnels, de l'histoire ancienne et de l'art postmoderne. L'aquarium de la baie de Monterey, de renommée mondiale, avec ses gelées psychédéliques et ses bacs à caresses bat-Ray, est une visite incontournable, surtout pour les familles. Sortez à l'extérieur et retrouvez-vous parmi les hôtels, les magasins et les restaurants qui remplissent les anciennes usines d'emballage de poisson le long de la rangéede conserveries, rendu célèbre par l'auteur local John Steinbeck. Louez des vélos pour suivre la côte sud autour de la péninsule de Pacific Grove, Asilomar State Beach, et la beauté de la mer et de pulvérisation (et gazillion-dollar maisons et célèbre Pebble Beach Golf terrains) le long de la route de 17 miles.

Sur le côté sud de la péninsule de Monterey, explorez le Carmel-by-the-Sea d' art (les habitants appellent simplement le Carmel), une ville qui chevauche habilement le point d'équilibre de l'histoire riche et de la nouvelle richesse. La mission Carmel est l'un des plus beaux de l'État, et les sentiers ombragés ventilateur à partir du site en luxuriante mission Trail nature. Promenez-vous sur les sables blancs de la plage Carmel, ou explorez une mosaïque de prés, de falaises battues par les vagues, et des arbres à vent tordus dans la réserve d'état proche de la pointe Lobos. S'aventurer dans Carmel Valley pour le soleil lumineux si (quand) le Foghorn commence à souffler. Ensuite, revenez au village principal de Carmel, avec des rues bordées de galeries, des gastropubs confortables, et même des auberges Cozier.

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Brian Cleary/Getty Images

Laguna Seca

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Laguna Seca
This Salinas area playground has thrills and access to nearby wine tasting

Just 10 miles from Monterey, the Laguna Seca Recreation Area features serene, undulating hills that harbor a surprising number of adrenaline-fueled activities. Some of its visitors come to cycle, others to camp. But usually, people come to experience the park’s main attraction: the WeatherTech Raceway. This 11-turn, 2.23-mile-long track, originally part of the former Fort Ord military base, was created in 1957 and today hosts a variety of events.

Many of them, not surprisingly, involve car racing, like the SRO Intercontinental GT Challenge California—an eight-hour endurance race held in October. If you’re a Porsche lover, come in September for the Porsche Rennsport Reunion, billed as the world’s largest gathering of Porsche race cars.

But fast cars aren’t all you’ll find here. The Sea Otter Classic, held in April, is a huge festival for bicyclists, hosting some 10,000 athletes and 70,000 fans. And even casual athletes have opportunities to get onto the track. Monthly twilight bike rides, open to the public, allow cyclists to pedal the twists and turns, including a feature called the Corkscrew—a section of track that drops the equivalent of 5½ stories. Or come in November for the family-focused turkey trot, when you can get a workout and support charities with your entry fee.

Laguna Seca also offers activities away from the track. The surrounding recreation area has a rifle and pistol range, with 25 shooting stalls and trained staff on hand for newbies. And outdoor enthusiasts can bring tents or RVs and stay in the park’s campground, open between April and October, with views of the Salinas Valley.

You’ll also find opportunities for wine tasting in the surrounding area. Check out the wineries of nearby Carmel Valley, which lean heavily toward Cabernets and Merlots. Several of the tasting rooms, like Joullian Vineyards and Holman Ranch, are close enough to each other for a DIY walking tour. Or hop onto a five-hour Wine Trolley tour from Monterey, where a vintage trolley takes you to wineries and provides lunch, as well as insider info about the area.

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Monterey Bay Aquarium

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Monterey Bay Aquarium
Come nose to nose with otters and more

The only way to get closer to swirling sea life is to tug on a wetsuit and dive in. This unparalleled facility, with soaring, glass-walled tanks letting you feel as if you’re truly under the sea, defines the standard for aquariums. It’s also one of the best makeovers on the planet: in the early 1900s, the main building was a bustling canning facility for sardines, all chronicled in fascinating historical exhibits near the entrance. (Excellent behind-the-scenes tours shed more light on the aquarium’s history, as well as its remarkable inner workings.)

Intriguing history or not, this is one big wow of a place. Mesmerizing tanks and exhibits showcase more than 35,000 animals and plants representing over 550 species—a large number of them California natives. Watch a giant Pacific octopus unfurl its tentacles, stand in the center of a swirling school of sardines, have hammerhead sharks swim inches away from your face, and see how trainers do daily health checks of the aquarium’s cutest inhabitants, California sea otters. A host of special activities, including junior diving programs, sleepovers, and custom romance tours (nothing like a little undersea light to make things dreamy) are also available. Insider tip: Get tickets online in advance to skip long lines.

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17-Mile Drive

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17-Mile Drive
Find perfection on a celebrated route along the Pacific coastline

Whether you drive it, bike it, or walk it, this romantic stretch of coastline make you think one thing above all else: how can I live here? The privately managed roadway (fee to drive; biking and walking are free), winding between Pacific Grove and Pebble Beach, takes you through a wind-sculpted forest of cypress trees to a rocky coastline dotted with some of the most envy-inducing homes on the planet. You’ll also get great views of the celebrated golf courses of Pebble Beach. In spring, pull over at Fanshell Overlook to see harbor seals and their pups (usually April to June). Bring a picnic and spread out a blanket on the small beach at Spanish Bay, or splurge with a meal at the posh Lodge at Pebble Beach

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Carmel Mission

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Carmel Mission
Explore California’s rich history at this heritage site

Lush gardens frame this classic mission, one of the most faithfully restored of the 21 missions that lead from San Diego to Sonoma. Father Junipero Serra, the leader of the Spanish padres when they headed north from Mexico in the late 1700s, chose this peaceful, garden-trimmed mission overlooking the Pacific as his final resting place, which comes as no surprise considering its elegant Moorish architecture and spectacular coastal setting.

Outside, lush gardens frame pretty views of the buildings, making it a popular destination for plein-air painters. Take a self-guided or docent-led tour to learn about life here centuries ago. Small museums and a chapel gallery showcase art pieces and artifacts. The sparsely furnished cell where Father Serra slept is a sobering reminder of how he lived.

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Christina Lauren/Flickr

Golfing in Monterey & Carmel

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Golfing in Monterey & Carmel
Play along the ocean or in sunny wine country

If you’re a golfer—and why else would you be reading this—then what do we need to say? You probably already know all about the Pebble Beach Golf Links and Spyglass Hill, both sites of the star- and top-pro-studded AT&T National Pro-Am. And you probably know that playing these courses will set you back a pretty penny or two, even if you’re a guest at the Lodge at Pebble Beach. Still, splurges should be unforgettable, and playing here, at holes that have tried the patience and skills of Phil Mickelson and Tiger Woods, and gotten a snarky comment out of golf lover Bill Murray—well, that’s one for the memory books.

But duffers, take note: outstanding fairways dot the region, with price points and styles of greens for all. Historic Del Monte Golf Course is the oldest golf course in continuous operation west of the Mississippi. The former military-only Bayonet and Black Horse courses, with sweeping views of Monterey Bay, are now open to all. Find more courses—and tempting wine tasting--in sunny Carmel Valley.

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Randolf Carmelo Trinidad/Flickr

Cannery Row

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Cannery Row
Visit shops and eateries wrapped in Steinbeck history

Talk about a comeback. Once the site of a booming sardine-canning industry, fell on hard times after World War II, in large part due to overfishing. Lesson learned: Today the Pacific waters around this waterfront are protected as national marine sanctuary and now teem with sea life. And the street has reinvented itself as a lively destination with a heavy nod towards its historic roots.

Many old cannery buildings have been refurbished as restaurants, galleries, shops, with the world-class Monterey Bay Aquarium. Tasting rooms let you sample local wines. And reminders of Cannery Row as the popular (and much-written-about) haunt of Pulitzer Prize – winning author John Steinbeck abound. The unassuming wooden structure at 800 Cannery Row was once Pacific Biological Laboratory, the workplace of marine biologist and ecologist Ed Ricketts—the inspiration for one of Steinbeck’s most unforgettable characters, Doc Ricketts.

Walk or rent a pedal-powered surrey to head over to lively Fisherman’s Wharf, a good place to snack on take-away cups of chowder or ceviche. Or continue south along the paved Monterey Bay Coastal Recreation Trail to scan Monterey Bay for wildlife, and peer into the tide pools at San Carlos Beach, at the south end of Cannery Row. Give your arms a workout—and see otters in their natural habitat—by renting a kayak and paddling out onto calm and clear Monterey Bay (a big hit with kids).

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Carmel Village by Greg Balzer/Flickr

Carmel Village

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Carmel Village
Visit galleries and shops on storybook-pretty streets

With streets straight out of storybooks, this charming hamlet makes you sigh at every turn. Visitors aren’t the only ones who fall in love with Carmel—artists do too—and their works fill the nearly 100 galleries scattered around town. Also enjoy quality paintings of seascapes and other works at the Carmel Art Association, a non-profit artist’s collective.

Much of the art action—as well boutiques filled with fashion finds and gifts, are packed in along Ocean Avenue—a busy spot indeed on prime weekends. Take a break with a peaceful visit to Tor House; you have to reserve a tour in advance, but the exquisite 1918 stone home and surrounding gardens, the home of poet Robinson Jeffers, is worth the effort and planning. (Tours on Fridays and Saturdays only.) Another entertaining detour: the afternoon “Yappy Hour” in the lobby of Cypress Inn, owned by dog-lover actress Doris Day—all well-behaved, leashed pooches (and their human companions) are welcome.

Still want more? Join a 2-hour guided ramble with Carmel Walks, taking you to secret gardens, hidden paths, and get the inside scoop on Carmel’s famous artists, writers, and celebrities.

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Courtesy of Monterey Jazz Festival

Events in Monterey and Carmel

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Events in Monterey and Carmel
Food, jazz, and dancing year round

The region’s Mediterranean climate means anytime is time for a party—or festival. One of the biggest—and splashiest—is Pebble Beach Food & Wine, a dress-up fancy multi-day affair showcasing celebrity chefs (Thomas Keller, Tyler Florence) and winemakers for a decadent weekend of feasting, toasting, and learning. Beautiful cars, exclusive settings, luxurious atmosphere—sure it’s a splurge, but it’s worth it, at least once. Another premier event is September’s Monterey Jazz Festival, a 3-day party of sound. The world’s best jazz performers (think Herbie Hancock and Booker T. Jones) take part, bee-bopping, boogying, swinging, and syncopating on eight local stages.

Other events round out the calendar. Two premier fall festivals are the Carmel Mission Fiesta, celebrating the region’s Spanish and Mexican heritage, and Taste of Carmel, with local restaurants and food purveyors serving their culinary creations at a series of events, including a swanky soiree at the Carmel Mission.